4 Common Complaints about The Curly Girl Method

The Curly Girl method is a way of working with naturally curly hair that involves the almost the COMPLETE elimination of sulfates and silicones. Lorraine Massey, owner of the Devachan salons, wrote a book years ago called The Curly Girl Handbook that outlines this process in great detail. Curly hair is tricky and getting the best results is often best achieved through trial and error. Most people I've turned onto this method love it, but some struggle with making it "work."

Here's a list of common problems I've heard while trying the Curly Girl method and how to solve them:

1) MY HAIR IS GREASY FROM CO-WASHING.

Your hair is likely not greasy from co-washing. It is very likely a technique issue, not a co-wash issue. Our scalp releases oils (sebum) to keep our hair shiny and soft. When our scalp starts to dry out (ironically, sulfate shampoos strip hair and often are the reason for overproduction of sebum), our scalp will release more and more sebum to compensate. When you co-wash, you want to SCRUB your scalp vigorously. No, there is no lather, but co-washes, as opposed to rinse-out conditioners, are made with mild surfactants that are meant to loosen and release dirt, oil, sweat, etc. from the scalp. When you apply a co-wash to your hands, scrub your scalp all around your head (forehead, behind ears, at the neckline) before you rinse it out. Then, apply a rinse-out conditioner ONLY on the length of your hair, not the scalp line. This will allow your co-wash to cleanse but not overdry hair, and your rinse-out to add moisture to your curls. If you are doing this and your hair is still greasy, try switching to a lighter co-wash or sulfate-free shampoo. Some co-washes are formulated for course, ethnic hair and aren't as effective on fine waves.

SheaMoisture Curl and Shine Shampoo

Although I recommend only co-washing, if it is absolutely not working for you, switching to a mild sulfate-free shampoo may work better for you.

2) I'VE BEEN DOING THIS FOR WEEKS AND MY CURLS ARE LIMP AND HEAVY.

Time to check the ingredients on the back of your products. This is usually a sign of silicone build-up. NOT all silicones are bad, there are water soluble silicones that will wash out without sulfates. Many, though, are cheap to produce and hidden in many products, even those marketed as "made for curly hair."

NON-WATER SOLUBLE 'CONES (stay away from these!)

Cetearyl Methicone
Cetyl Dimethicone
Cyclomethicone
Cyclopentasiloxane
Dimethicone
Dimethiconol
Stearyl Dimethicone
Trimethylsilylamodimethicone
Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-12 (and) Cetrimonium Chloride

WATER SOLUBLE 'CONES (these are ok and will wash out without sulfates)

Dimethicone Copolyol,
Hydrolysed Wheat Protein Hydroxypropyl Polysiloxane
Lauryl methicone Copolyol
Silicones with PEG listed before them

3) MY HAIR LOOKED GREAT AT FIRST, BUT NOW MY CURLS WON'T CURL.

Time to clarify. Even if you use the Curly Girl Method to perfection, clarifying with a sulfate-free shampoo with a good surfactant is often necessary every 2-3 weeks. Follow this up with a deep conditioning treatment or hair masque, then go back to your regularly scheduled CG routine.

Kinky Curly Come Clean Shampoo

SheaMoisture Super Fruit Nourishing Moisture Masque

4) MY HAIR IS FRIZZY NO MATTER WHAT I DO.

Provided you're using the right products, the next step in preventing frizz is drying your hair correctly. I highly recommend plopping for at least 30 minutes after a shower if possible. This allows your curls to sit on top of your head untouched by any wind or air. They will start to form nicely and without any frizz. If you do NOT want to apply any heat, you can air dry at this point. If you like using a diffuser, try plopping into a NET (not a t-shirt) and using a hair dryer while your hair is still in the net. This will start to dry curls while holding them close to your head, preventing frizz. Hair should never be heat-styled to 100% dry, so take it out of the net when it's about 60-70% dry and air-dry the rest. These two steps alone will be a HUGE help in reducing frizz. If frizz still an issue, a glosser or shine serum without silicones on DRY HAIR will work wonders.

SheaMoisture Smooth & Repair High Shine Glosser

Remember, the process of finding the right products and techniques will take time, but ultimately going natural should be easier than having to heat style. Once you find what works, you'll be come a well oiled machine and be able to get the results you want pretty easily. Natural curls are tricky and can vary one day to the next, but there's beauty in our curly mess. Embrace it!